Mitos Audio Mobil
Mitos Audio Mobil
1. Subwoofer 12" lebih lambat dari pada 10"
Mark: Subwoofers! OK, that horse is dead. Let's say keep it close, but always listen and don't be afraid to experiment. So how about woofers? Again, everyone knows everything about woofers. One of the most common myths is that the larger the woofer, the "slower" it sounds. What is this? How can a woofer be slow or fast?
Garry: I love this one. I hear it all the time. The reason that whole thing got started was back in home audio there were a bunch of sealed box systems and the boxes were being built too small. That made the sound really boomy and people would blame it on the woofer's size. Well, no, it's because that woofer's not in a 6ft3 box like it needs. You can have 15s that sound very tight and fast or you can have 10s that play very low with good output. The whole object of the game with loudspeakers is air displacement. It's done two ways: either with diameter or excursion. You can take a smaller speaker with more excursion and it will actually play lower and louder than a larger speaker with less excursion.
2. Kabel power speaker harus yang lapis nikel/gold, bla bla bla
Garry: The quality of the wire is the most important. Having said that, quality equal, bigger can be better just to have a cushion.
What about these super sub amps that let you connect 8- and 4-gauge wire to drive the subs? Is that needed, or is it overkill?
Garry: Yeah, most of that is marketing. You need an awful lot of power at a very low impedance to require 8-gauge speaker cable. I mean for goodness sake, let me get my calculator here. Let's take a 2,500-watt amp, at a 1-ohm load, that's still only going to be about 50 amps of current. Fifty amps doesn't require an 8-gauge cable. Ten or 12-gauge is probably as heavy as anyone is going to need in a car and quite honestly, the amount of resistance in a cable is so negligible; there's more difference in the resistance in the voice coil of the speaker.
Wayne, you must have something to say about this?
Wayne: No, not really, I can't argue with any of that logic.
AmplifiersMoving up the chain, let's talk about amplifiers. Some are so huge and others fit nicely under your seat but can have the same power ratings. Is someone lying?
Garry: I think "bigger is better" will always be a marketing thing, but way back in the '80s the Japanese amp guys would make a heatsink way bigger than the circuit board just for that reason. But now aluminum is very expensive and can contribute a lot to an amp's price, so a bigger amp doesn't really mean it's any better. What it most likely means is that it has a lot of thermal capacity. Take for example Rockford Fosgate's Power Series. The goal on those amps was that they could never shut down because of thermal load. In the summer, in a boat, in direct sunlight, this amp can't shut down. That's why it's physically so large. Alpine, Pioneer and others that are using the new, very efficient ICE [power] chipset can build amps that are much smaller because they don't have to dissipate as much heat due to the higher efficiency of the ICE [power] design; and the design doesn't have the same objectives as the Rockford amp.
3. Speaker response harus flat pada freq. 20hz-20khz
EQThat leaves me with just one more topic: EQ. I don't know where it came from, but a lot of guys, once they start tweaking, think a perfectly flat response is the ultimate in sound quality. Is that true?
Mark: Equalization is almost a requirement in any high-end car. It's something that if you overdo it, it's going to sound over-processed. Equalization shouldn't be looked at as the primary tuning tool; that should be the proper installation of the gear. Put the speakers in the right place, make sure everything is in polarity, adjust the crossovers, set the amplifier gains properly and then EQ. The best technique is to do it by ear while you're listening to music you're really familiar with. It should also be a good clean recording - some old Black Sabbath isn't going to do it. Pick something that's well recorded that you're not offended by and then make it sound like a reference system you've heard. I think there are very few installers who can take an EQ and honestly make a system sound better, and that's because they've taken the time to learn a reference system and taken that over to how to get that sound with the tools available in a car audio system. But making all the dots line up on an RTA (and this is from a lot of personal experience on my part, I mean a lot), is a recipe for an awful, awful sounding system. That's because the way a human ear works is so different from the way a microphone works.
1. Subwoofer 12" lebih lambat dari pada 10"
Mark: Subwoofers! OK, that horse is dead. Let's say keep it close, but always listen and don't be afraid to experiment. So how about woofers? Again, everyone knows everything about woofers. One of the most common myths is that the larger the woofer, the "slower" it sounds. What is this? How can a woofer be slow or fast?
Garry: I love this one. I hear it all the time. The reason that whole thing got started was back in home audio there were a bunch of sealed box systems and the boxes were being built too small. That made the sound really boomy and people would blame it on the woofer's size. Well, no, it's because that woofer's not in a 6ft3 box like it needs. You can have 15s that sound very tight and fast or you can have 10s that play very low with good output. The whole object of the game with loudspeakers is air displacement. It's done two ways: either with diameter or excursion. You can take a smaller speaker with more excursion and it will actually play lower and louder than a larger speaker with less excursion.
2. Kabel power speaker harus yang lapis nikel/gold, bla bla bla
Garry: The quality of the wire is the most important. Having said that, quality equal, bigger can be better just to have a cushion.
What about these super sub amps that let you connect 8- and 4-gauge wire to drive the subs? Is that needed, or is it overkill?
Garry: Yeah, most of that is marketing. You need an awful lot of power at a very low impedance to require 8-gauge speaker cable. I mean for goodness sake, let me get my calculator here. Let's take a 2,500-watt amp, at a 1-ohm load, that's still only going to be about 50 amps of current. Fifty amps doesn't require an 8-gauge cable. Ten or 12-gauge is probably as heavy as anyone is going to need in a car and quite honestly, the amount of resistance in a cable is so negligible; there's more difference in the resistance in the voice coil of the speaker.
Wayne, you must have something to say about this?
Wayne: No, not really, I can't argue with any of that logic.
AmplifiersMoving up the chain, let's talk about amplifiers. Some are so huge and others fit nicely under your seat but can have the same power ratings. Is someone lying?
Garry: I think "bigger is better" will always be a marketing thing, but way back in the '80s the Japanese amp guys would make a heatsink way bigger than the circuit board just for that reason. But now aluminum is very expensive and can contribute a lot to an amp's price, so a bigger amp doesn't really mean it's any better. What it most likely means is that it has a lot of thermal capacity. Take for example Rockford Fosgate's Power Series. The goal on those amps was that they could never shut down because of thermal load. In the summer, in a boat, in direct sunlight, this amp can't shut down. That's why it's physically so large. Alpine, Pioneer and others that are using the new, very efficient ICE [power] chipset can build amps that are much smaller because they don't have to dissipate as much heat due to the higher efficiency of the ICE [power] design; and the design doesn't have the same objectives as the Rockford amp.
3. Speaker response harus flat pada freq. 20hz-20khz
EQThat leaves me with just one more topic: EQ. I don't know where it came from, but a lot of guys, once they start tweaking, think a perfectly flat response is the ultimate in sound quality. Is that true?
Mark: Equalization is almost a requirement in any high-end car. It's something that if you overdo it, it's going to sound over-processed. Equalization shouldn't be looked at as the primary tuning tool; that should be the proper installation of the gear. Put the speakers in the right place, make sure everything is in polarity, adjust the crossovers, set the amplifier gains properly and then EQ. The best technique is to do it by ear while you're listening to music you're really familiar with. It should also be a good clean recording - some old Black Sabbath isn't going to do it. Pick something that's well recorded that you're not offended by and then make it sound like a reference system you've heard. I think there are very few installers who can take an EQ and honestly make a system sound better, and that's because they've taken the time to learn a reference system and taken that over to how to get that sound with the tools available in a car audio system. But making all the dots line up on an RTA (and this is from a lot of personal experience on my part, I mean a lot), is a recipe for an awful, awful sounding system. That's because the way a human ear works is so different from the way a microphone works.
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